Shawa N’gundu Manor – Africa House
The visit to Shiwa Manor proved as fascinating and surreal as we could have wished for. We started off with a walk to family graveyard. This overlooks the spot where Sir Stewart Gore-Brown first set eyes on the majestic vista of the lake and decided this was where he was going to build his African dream. See the photo……..they called him Chipembele. That means Rhino (Black) in the local lingo, as he was famed for his short fuse and explosive temper. Whatever he was, Shiwa is certainly a tribute to the man’s devotion, endurance and determination. The house is full of memoirs and relics from that bygone romantic and mystical era and the family have done a marvellous job of preserving everything in mint condition (even including his afternoon tea service). We had an inspiring tour from Jo, the wife of Charlie, Gore-Brown’s Grandson, who has mastered the art of bringing it all to life in 3D!
We decided to push on and get the miles behind us. We stopped the night at Forest Inn, fairly non descript and overpriced.
Another long day of driving. We stopped at Fringella Farm to stock up en route. Very pleasant and great food. The pork sausages are to die for! After that we had a brief stop in Lusaka and visited the Crafts market and bought a couple of things to take home.
Eventually we made Mazabuka and stopped the night at the Golden Pillow – good value.
3rd October to 8th October
Livingstone & Victoria Falls
The guide book was no help in finding us somewhere to stay. After a few dodgy places, we decided to stay at Bush Front Lodge. Really nice place, good internet connection (honestly!) – can’t believe I don’t have to make a cup of tea waiting for a page to refresh!
We are right next to the Falls and spent yesterday (5th October) visiting the Falls. We managed to walk all the way out to Livingstone Island (you do so at your own risk) right on the edge of the Falls. We had to skirt streams and small rapids but it was well worth the effort for the views. I forgot my cap and by 11am the sun was burning my bonce big time!
We covered the whole of the Falls area from the Zambian side. The Boiling Pot was an especially awesome sight. The Baboons here don’t give a damn! They walk right alongside you but don’t seem to bother anyone; they’re just habituated to humans I guess.
The Falls was quite a contrast to when we visited (Zimbabwe) last April. then it was in full spate and was a thundering torrent. We got drenched trying to get close to the falls. This time the Falls were fairly tranquil in comparison. It was nice to experience the two extremes.
The Landy goes in for a service tomorrow and the following day we make tracks for Namibia.